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All patterns shown are 23-7/8" x 23-7/8", super-easy lay-in panels, specifically designed to fit into any suspended grid system. When installing panels in an existing 2' x 4' grid systems, simply add 2' cross 'T's as needed. For perimeter conditions where panels are not full size, tin-snips can be used to trim the panels to fit.

When installing cornice with a suspended ceiling, position the cornice so it spans the ceiling and the wall equally (see "as cornice" picture below), and nail it to the wall and allow it to rest against the suspended ceiling. Continue working around the perimeter of the room by overlapping each consecutive cornice ½ inch (repeated pattern will overlap in an interlocking manner). When mitering for corners, use a miter box, a fine toothed hacksaw and gentle unidirectional strokes. Use the same point in the cornice' pattern to begin the cuts of both adjacent pieces to ensure a symmetrical union.
As an option, the cornice can be nailed up vertical, entirely on the wall, just below the ceiling, as a "border", rather than a cornice.


The first step is to erect scaffolding to ensure steady footing while working. To begin the installation, check the joists (existing ceiling) for level. To do this, tack a chalk line to the joist closest to the wall, string it across the ceiling to the opposing wall, pull it taught and tack it to the nearest joist at this end. Gaps between string and joists should be shimmed. Repeat this everywhere the plywood will be fastened to the joists, to ensure that the plywood will be level. Now you will nail/screw plywood (3/8" - ½") to the joists, running the length of the sheets along the length of the joists, and making certain that the edges of the plywood rest securely against a joist. This will ensure rigidity.

If installing directly over an existing ceiling (i.e. Drywall, plaster), first determine where the joists are by drilling pilot holes with a 1/8" bit, moving over an 1-1/2" at a time, until a joist is struck. From there, the joist will fall 16" or 24" on center, in both directions. Once the joists are located, the plywood can be installed.

Next snap a chalk line down the center of the room in both directions, creating a cross hair. Butting the first panel against two of the chalk lines of the cross hair, nail the first field panel into position. Overlapping the prior field panel, continue to nail adjacent field panels, (position each consequent field panel to maintain continuity of the impressions with the prior field panels). Because panels overlap, it is recommended that the panels be nailed to lap the adjacent panels at the edge farthest from the entrance, to conceal the seams. Tin snips can be used to cutout holes for light fixtures and/or air vents. When reaching the last full field panel to fit before the wall, leave the edge closest to the wall without nails.

When all of the field panels are nailed into position, measure the spaces remaining to be covered. From this, subtract for the cornice and add roughly 2" for the dimension to cut the filler panels. The filler panels will slip approximately 1" behind the last full field panel and will span to approximately 1" beyond where the cornice will start. Nail the filler panels into position, making certain to nail through the edge of the last field panels that were not nailed prior.

Now install the cornice to span from the remaining ceiling, an equal distance down the wall, nailing to both wall and ceiling to ensure a secure fastening. Overlap consequent cornice with prior cornice, working around the perimeter of the room. When mitering for corners, use a miter box, a fine toothed hacksaw and gentle unidirectional strokes. Use the same point in the cornice' pattern to begin the cuts of both adjacent pieces to ensure a symmetrical seam.

To close any non-conforming seams, using the head of a nail, gently tap until tight. Caulk can also be used to fill any openings (use clear caulk if ceiling is to remain mill finish), but be sure to wipe away any excess before drying.

The ceiling is now ready to be painted, using any latex or oil based paint. This can be accomplished by either rolling, brushing or spraying.


When using our products for a backsplash, nailing is the recommended method for installation. The first step should be to line the wall where the panels will be placed with 3/8” or ½” plywood. Templates for outlets, windows, etc. should be cut prior to beginning actual installation.

Due to the high-traffic area that backsplashes are installed, the panels will be susceptible to impact. To avoid unwanted blemishes, each panel should be lined with a latex based tile adhesive in a thin even coat. While still moist and pliable, place the panel into position, gently pressing the panel against the plywood, allowing the compound to ooze into all the crevices of the embossed panel. Nail the panel in place. The next panel will overlap the prior panel by 3/8”. To prevent moisture from getting behind the panels and into walls, a light bead of clear caulk or silicone should be laid down over the area to be overlapped. Place the next panel in to position and follow the same procedure as the first. Once this is done, using a clean, non-abrasive cloth, wipe away the excess caulk or compound before it hardens.

Continue with the remaining panels in this same manner until the entire area is completed. Once all of the panels are installed, lay a light bead of caulk around the entire perimeter of the backsplash, being sure to wipe away any excess.

Because backsplashes are in a damp environment, it is recommended that a clear-coated, copper, white or finished panel be used. This is to avoid water marks that can stain “raw” material.

**Special Note for Polished Copper and Polished Brass Finish Applications**

The material requires special attention when installed as a backsplash. Please call our staff for specific recommendations for this installation.

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